14 Days/13 Nigths
Max. Altitude: 6354 m / 20,846 ft
Route: Expedition Nevado Yanapaccha, Chopicalqui & Alpamayo
Availability: May - September
Difficulty: Difficult
People per Guide: 2
Nevado Yanapaccha is located in the Central Andes of South America, in the Cordillera Blanca range and Huascaran National Park. This mountain can be climbed all year round, and is a good place for climbing and rescue courses due to the amount of crevices and climbing walls. Its name comes from Yana, which means black and Paccha, which means waterfall. Its full name would mean Waterfall in a black mountain.
Nevado Chopicalqui is the third highest peak of Huascaran mountain of the massif, located in the Cordillera Blanca, between the two peaks of the Huascaran and Contrahierbas, in the Yungay province. The trail inside the valley goes around the edge of the two beautiful, with emerald-like water lakes of Llanganuco: chinacocha (Female lake) and Orconcocha (Male Lake)
Nevado Alpamayo It was considered by the newspaper Alpinismo (May 1966) as the “most beautiful mountain in the world”
TIP:
This is a very good hike to acclimatize. From Huaraz we go by car to the village of Pitec. On the way we pass several picturesque villages, such as Unchus and Llupa. At 3850 m /12,631 ft we start our easy hike up to Lake Churup with its blue colors sitting at an altitude of 4440 m /14,566 ft ling over steep rocks. And then we come back to Huaraz by the same way.
Day 01: Huaraz - Morraine Camp 5000 m / 16,404 ft
The day starts from Huaraz, where we will take the road towards Huaylas until Yungay, before heading East. Then we will go through the Llanganuco Valley, where you will be able to see the twin lakes Chicacocha and Orconcocha. We will continue until we reach Kilometer 42. Once there, we will start our hike, going through Campo Morrena. Approx. 3.5 hrs of transport and approximately 4 hours walking.
Day 02: Morraine Camp – Summit Yanapaccha 5460 m / 17,913 ft – Morraine Camp 5000 m / 16,404 ft
We will start hiking the ascent at 3 am, crossing a moraine until we reach the wide glacier. We will then climb the 180m Wall (50-60°) until we reach the summit. There, we will enjoy spectacular views of glaciers, such as the Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Pisco, Huandoys and others. Later, we will start descending via a ridge, with views of the Chacraraju, to the moraine camp. The ascent is approx. approximately 5 - 6 hours walking. The descent to camp is approximately 3 - 4 hours walking.
Day 03: Morraine Camp - Base Camp Chopicalqui.
On the third day, we will go back down to kilometers 42 after we will continue to Base base chopicalqui, where we will camp for the night. 2 to 3h of descent.
Day 04: Base camp 4430 m / 14,534 ft – Morraine Camp 4820 m / 15,813 ft
We will start our hike by a ridge and continuing until we reach Campo Morrena where we will spend the night. Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
Day 05: Morraine Camp - High Camp 5380 m / 17,650 ft
We will start the hike by crossing several moraines until we reach the glacier. Then, we will start the journey up to the 5380m point where we will set up camp. Approx. 4 hours.
Day 06: High Camp - Summit Chopicalqui 6354 m / 20,846 ft - Morraine Camp
We will start our hike at 1 am, ascending until we reach the ridge, before continuing onto the first wall (50m, 50-60°) and then the second wall (60m, 50-65°) (please note that the inclination varies every year). We will climb to the top where great mountain views will await us. Later, we will descend to Campo Morrena. Approx. 5 to 6 hour hike.
Day 07: Morraine Camp - Huaraz
On the last day, we will descend to the hairpin, where our ride will be waiting for us to return to Huaraz. Approx. 3 to 4 hours
Day 08: Rest days (Huaraz)
Free day
Day 09: Huaraz – Cashapampa 2800 m / 91,86 ft– Llamacoral 3750 m / 12,303 ft
From Huaraz we will drive to a village called Cashapampa with our shuttle vehicle. The donkeys and Donkey Driver will be waiting for us there. From there, we will begin our trail through the Santa Cruz valley until reaching Llamacoral, where we will set up camp. Approx. approximately 4 - 5 hours walking.
Day 10: Llamacoral – Base Camp 4250 m / 13,943 ft
On day 2 we will start our trail in the same valley where the views of two beautiful lakes, Chinacocha and Orconcocha can be enjoyed. Then we will take a Zigzag trail to Base Camp. Approx. 5 hours.
Day 11: Base Camp – High Camp 5450 m / 17,880 ft
We will hike up to High Camp, first via a rocky trail until arriving at the glacier, then we will trek through ice and snow with some steep parts until we get to 5450m where we will set up camp.
Day 12: High Camp – Summit Alpamayo Mountain 5947 m / 19,511 ft
The hike will start at 1 am, trekking until we surpass a bergschrund where the technical part in the ice begins until we reach the summit. Then we will abseil down to High Camp. Approx. 6 to 7 hours. (optional: can go down to base camp)
Day 13: High Camp – Base Camp
Relaxed descent to base camp. Approx. 4 to 5 hours
Day 14: Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz
Walk back through Santa Cruz Valley to Cashapampa, where our vehicle will be waiting for us. Approx. 4 to 5 hours.
START DATE | END DATE | DETAILS | STATUS |
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Octavio Salazar
Email:
office@andeanpeaks.com
Expedition Nevados Pisco 5752 m & Chopicalqui 6345 m
Trekking Cedros Alpamayo 5947 m
Expedition Nevados Alpamayo 5947 m & Huascaran 6768 m